Posts in category: Pests

Introduction to Acropora Eating Flatworms (AEFW):

An Acropora Eating Flat Worm (AEFW) is a flatworm that only effects Acropora, but does not affect all Acropora species. Some Acropora species are more prone to infection than others. Acropora species that have shorter polyps have a greater chance of having these parasites. Acropora nana is well liked by the AEFW.

This parasite is almost invisible; it may consume the Zooxanthellae making it the same color as the infected Acropora. It is similar in shape to the common red flatworm but is about twice the size. The photos below show how hard it is to tell an Acropora is infected.

Signs of infection:

The easiest way to recognize whether or not you have AEFW is to look for “bite marks” and eggs around the base. The “bite marks” maybe missing Zooxanthellae. Bite marks are shown in the photos below.

Scroll through images of aefw damage below. Identification is a key to prevention, and dipping in CoralRx is the ounce of prevention everyone should take.

AEFW  Life Cycle:

Toxins in the eggs of the Acropora Eating Flatworm destroy the tissue near the eggs. The tissue is not eaten but chemically burned. In the pictures below eggs are shown between the polyps of an Acropora and the chemical burn. There is not a lot known about the life cycle of these flatworms. Eggs are the reddish brown dots with the white dead tissue around them.

Prevention:

A quarantine tank is the easiest way to prevent these flatworms from destroying your Acropora based reef tank. Ideally, Acropora corals should be left in quarantine for 3 months. During the quarantine time, you should view the coral on a daily basis and watch for any bite marks or eggs on the coral. Flatworms like to hide on the underside of Acropora. Eggs are normally found on the base of the coral. Whether or not quarantine is an option, a dip in CoralRx is highly suggested.

Treatment:

Treatment should be done in a quarantine tank. The first step is to move the affected corals to a quarantine tank; the quarantine tank should have good light and water flow. Setup your quarantine tank, then take your coral out of the main tank and dip it in Coral Rx. While the coral is in CoralRx take a turkey baster, and blast the coral with the dip. Making sure it is getting in between the branches and in all the cracks of the coral. Do this for approximately 5 – 10 minutes. After 5 – 10 minutes, remove coral and discard the coral dip. Do not reuse the coral dip as parasites may release toxins. Rinse coral with clean saltwater and return to a quarantine tank. Repeat every 4-7 days until no more flatworms are found. Leave the coral in your quarantine system for an additional 3 months before moving back to your aquarium. Additionally, adding wrasses to your quarantine tank will also aid in the treatment of Acropora Eating Flatworms.

Introduction to Zoanthid Eating Spiders:

Sea Spiders are not spiders in the traditional sense. They are not members of the arachnid family, but are, instead, marine arthropods known as pycnogonids. There are more than 1300 known species, and almost all of them are carnivores. Depending upon the species, they will feast on your corals, anemones, sponge, etc. Sea spiders are common predators on zoanthid corals. They may be hard to spot, some being as small as 0.04 inches in diameter. They will even crawl inside a closed polyp, making it very difficult to spot.

Zoanthid Eating Spiders are marine arthropods of class Pycnogonida also called Pantopoda or Pycnogonid. There are over 1300 known species of Pycnogonida and it seems more than one type feed on Zoanthids. There may be other types of Pycnogonida that feed on other types of corals. This parasite does not run ramped in the marine hobby because they reproduce sexually, not asexually.

Identifying Zoanthid Eating Spiders Look Like:

These sea spiders are typically eight legged, but may have other appendages that resemble legs. These appendages are used in caring for young and cleaning as well as courtship. The average size is about 5 mm across. The Zoanthid spider that we look for is very hard if not almost impossible to see as the spider crawls inside of the polyp as it closes.  However, there are times when the spider’s legs are exposed outside of the closed polyp, as shown in the picture below.

Treating Zoaanthid Eating Spiders:

Some commercial treatments claim to remove pycnogonids, but the hobbyists on the forums have not found this to be the case. The spiders tend to stay beneath the mucus layer of the zoas, and remain unaffected by treatments. The best method discovered so far is to physically remove the adults with some tweezers. Keep checking the coral for months afterwards to catch any that hatched over time.

Introduction to Montipora Eating Nudibranchs:

Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are a type of aeolid nudibranchs which are known to feed on coral. It is important to keep these parasites out of our aquaria.

Montipora Eating Nudibranchs feed on the tissue of corals from the Montipora and Anacropora genus. These nudibranchs can destroy large amounts of coral in a very short time.

They can inflict damage quickly because they multiply at an astounding rate, and they store the nematocysts (stingers) of its ingested prey. Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are hard to get under control because of the rate of which the multiply.

What Montipora Eating Nudibranchs look like:

The white and frilly nudibranchs are small and grow to about 8 millimeters (1/3 of an inch) in length.

Typically Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are on the back side of a plating Montipora, notice how hard it is to distinguish between the Montipora Eating Nudibranch and the feather dusters.

Montipora Eating Nudibranchs like to hide in hard to find places, they particularly like the underside of plating Montipora and the base of Montipora sponges.

Life Cycle:

Montipora Eating Nudibranchs are thought to be asexual, not needing another nudibranch to reproduce. They lay about 100 eggs at a time, the eggs hatch in 36 to 96 hours. Once the eggs have hatched, they become full adults in less than a week. This makes them difficult to eliminate however, it makes them easier to spot in a quarantine tank.

Prevention:

A quarantine tank is the easiest way to prevent these ugly little reef critters from destroying your Montipora based reef tank. Ideally, Montipora corals should be left in quarantine for 3 months.

During the quarantine time, you should view the coral on a daily basis and watch for any white spots on the coral. Remember that Montipora Eating Nudibranchs like the underside of Montipora.

Whether or not quarantine is an option, a dip in CoralRx is highly suggested.

Treatment:

Treatment should be done in a quarantine tank.

1. Move the affected corals to a quarantine tank; the quarantine tank should have good light and water flow.
2. Setup your quarantine tank, then take your coral out of the main tank and dip it in Coral Rx.
3. While the coral is in CoralRx take a turkey baster, and blast the coral with the dip. Making sure it is getting in between the plates and in all the cracks of the coral. Do this for approximately 5 – 10 minutes.
4. Remove coral and discard the coral dip. Do not reuse the coral dip as parasites may release toxins.
5. Rinse coral with clean saltwater and return to a quarantine tank.
6. Repeat every 4-8 days till no more nudibranchs are found.

Leave the coral in your quarantine system for an additional 3 months before moving back to your aquarium. Additionally, adding wrasses to your quarantine tank will also aid in the treatment of Montipora Eating Nudibranchs.

Introduction to Bristleworms:

Bristleworms is loosely used to describe all Polychaete class marine worms. It is the Pherecardia, Hermodice, and other related species that most aquarists need to be concerned about.

These species are also known as Fireworms because they have toxic bristles on their bodies that can inflict a sting. Fireworms are carnivores that can devastate a reef aquarium. They are not selective about what they eat and may also eat small fish.

It is advised to wear gloves when dealing with Fireworms to avoid coming into contact with their stinging bristles.

Not all bristleworms are bad.

Some help maintains healthy sand beds.

It can be very hard to tell the difference between “good” bristleworms from “bad” fireworms.  If in doubt, throw it out.

What Bristleworms looks like: 

Similar to an earthworm with bristles.

Signs of infestation:

Viewing bristleworms in your aquarium.

Life Cycle of Bristleworms:

Polychaetes reproduce sexually. Once the eggs reach maturity, the female will release them into the water by rupturing her body, which quickly results in her death.

 

Prevention:

A quarantine tank is the easiest way to prevent these ugly little reef critters from destroying your reef tank. Ideally, corals and live rock should be left in quarantine for 3 months. During the quarantine time, you should view the coral and live rock on a daily basis at night and watch for bristle worms.

Bristleworms like to stay hidden in the sand and rocks.

They typically come out when the lights are off.

Whether or not quarantine is an option, a dip in CoralRx is highly suggested.

Treatment:

Treatment should be done in a quarantine tank.

1. The first step is to move the affected corals to a quarantine tank; the quarantine tank should have good light and water flow.
2. Next, take your coral out of the main tank and dip it in Coral Rx.
3. While the coral is in CoralRx take a turkey baster, and blast the coral with the dip. Making sure it is getting in between the polyps and the underside of the coral. Do this for approximately 5 – 10 minutes.
4. After 5 – 10 minutes, remove coral and discard the coral dip.  Do not reuse the coral dip as parasites may release toxins.
5. Rinse coral with clean saltwater and return to a quarantine tank.
6. Repeat every 4-8 days till no more bristleworms are found. Leave the coral in your quarantine system for an additional 3 months before moving back to your aquarium. An arrow crab and wrasses are a natural predator that maybe helpful in eradicating these pest.

Introduction to Zoanthid Eating Nudibranchs:

Zoanthid Eating Nudibranchs also are known as Zoa Eating Nudibranchs or Zoo Eating Nudibranchs are a type of aeolid nudibranchs which are known to feed on coral.

It is important to keep these parasites out of our aquaria. Zoanthid Eating Nudibranchs seem to eat Zoanthid polyps while they appear to have little or no effect on Protopalythoa or Palythoa species.

It is easy for an aquarist to confuse Zoanthid species with Palythoa and Protopalythoa species. If you are unsure of what you have, use a book such as Julian Sprung’s book, Invertebrates: A Quick Reference Guide.

Even if you think that you know what type of polyp you are dealing with, you might want to check this book just to be certain.

What Zoanthid Eating Nudibranchs look like:

Zoanthid Eating Nudibranchs are brown and frilly and grow to about 1/2 inch in length.

Life Cycle:

Eggs are laid in a circular pattern as shown below.

These nudibranchs are thought to be asexual, not needing another nudibranch to reproduce.

Prevention: 

A quarantine tank is the easiest way to prevent these ugly little reef critters from destroying your Zoanthid based reef tank. Ideally, Zoanthid corals should be left in quarantine for 3 months.

During the quarantine time, you should view the coral on a daily basis and watch for Nudibranchs or eggs. Remember that Zoa Eating Nudibranchs like to stay hidden in the polyp mat.

Whether or not quarantine is an option, a dip in CoralRx is highly suggested.

Treatment: 

Treatment should be done in a quarantine tank.

1. The first step is to move the affected corals to a quarantine tank; the quarantine tank should have good light and water flow.
2. Next, take your coral out of the main tank and dip it in Coral Rx. While the coral is in CoralRx take a turkey baster, and blast the coral with the dip. Making sure it is getting in between the polyps and the underside of the coral. Do this for approximately 5 – 10 minutes. 
3. After 5 – 10 minutes, remove coral and discard the coral dip.  Do not reuse the coral dip as parasites may release toxins.
4. Rinse coral with clean saltwater and return to the quarantine tank. Repeat every 4-8 days till no more nudibranchs are found. Leave the coral in your quarantine system for an additional 3 months before moving back to your aquarium. Additionally, adding wrasses to your quarantine tank will also aid in the treatment of Zoanthid-Eating Nudibranchs.

Introduction to Rapid Tissue Necrosis (RTN) and Slow Tissue Necrosis (STN): 

Tissue Necrosis and Slow Tissue Necrosis are used to describing an event of tissue coming off the coral or the coral turning white, which is known as bleaching. The speed at which this happens determines whether it is called rapid or slow tissue necrosis.

Rapid tissue necrosis happens when the coral is almost completely white within 24 hours.

Slow tissue necrosis can take days, weeks or even months.

There has been much discussed on what causes this problem.

It is thought to be caused by different strains of Vibrio bacteria.

What does a Vibrio Infection look like: 

You cannot see this bacterial infection with your eyes.

However, you can see the signs of the infection.

Signs of infection: 

Rapid or slow loss of coral tissue revealing the bone of the coral. Typicaly seen is SPS corals.

Life Cycle:

These infections are thought to be spread through the water column. Water column being defined as a conceptual column of water from surface to bottom sediments.

Little else is know about the spread of the infection.

Prevention:

A quarantine tank is the easiest way to prevent Vibrio infections from destroying your reef tank. Ideally corals should be left in quarantine for 3 months.

During the quarantine time you should view the coral on a daily basis and watch for any anomalies.

Whether or not quarantine is an option, a dip in CoralRx is highly suggested.

Treatment:

Treatment should be done in a quarantine tank.

1. First step is to move the effected corals to a quarantine tank; the quarantine tank should have good light and water flow. Setup your quarantine tank, then take your coral out of the main tank and dip it in Coral Rx. Making sure it is getting in between the branches and in all the cracks of the coral. Do this for approximately 5 – 10 minutes.
2. After 5 – 10 minutes, remove coral and discard the coral dip.  Do not reuse coral dip as Coral Rx may have also removed parasites that have been known to release toxins.
3. Rinse coral with clean saltwater and return to quarantine tank.

Repeat every 4-7 days until tissue recession has stopped.

Leave the coral in your quarantine system for an additional 3 months before moving back to your aquarium.

Introduction to Red Flatworms:

Red Flatworms go by several different names; Convolutriloba retrogemma, red planaria, rust flatworms, and some refer to them as just flatworms. These terms are loosely used to describe flatworms that proliferate rapidly in aquariums with elevated nutrient levels, and low water flow.

These pests can increase to a point where they will actually cover corals, and block the light from reaching the corals’ zooxanthellae, slowly starving the coral to death. Flatworms may actually feed on the zooxanthellae from coral tissue.

What Red Flatworms looks like: 

Convolutriloba retrogemma are known in the hobby as red planaria although they are tan, brown or rust colored.

Convolutriloba retrogemma have a red dot about three-quarters of the way down the body of the flatworm. The presence of three lobes at the tail end of this animal is the unique identifier of Convolutriloba retrogemma.

Typical size is about 1 mm to 3 mm in length.

Signs of infestation: 

Red Flatworms can be seen on the surface of corals and in low flow areas of the reef aquarium.

Life Cycle of Flatworms:

Flatworms asexually reproduce, meaning that just one flatworm is needed for reproduction. This allows them to reproduce quickly; creating a problem in the aquarium.

Prevention:

A quarantine tank is the only way to prevent these flatworms from becoming an unsightly attraction in your reef tank. Ideally, all corals should be left in quarantine for 3 months.

During the quarantine time, you should view the coral on a daily basis and watch for any flatworms in the tank. Theses flatworms congregate on the surfaces of corals. Whether or not quarantine is an option, a dip in CoralRx is highly suggested.

Treatment:

These flatworms are very difficult to eliminate should an outbreak occur. The toxic nature of the flatworm makes most in-tank treatment risky at best. Prevention is the only way to make sure your tank is free of this flatworm.

If you have an outbreak:

1. Remove as many flatworms as possible using a siphon, then dip each coral in CoralRx.
2. After 5 – 10 minutes, remove the coral and discard the coral dip. Do not reuse the coral dip as red flatworms will release a strong toxin which is known to be detrimental to marine life.
3. Rinse coral with clean saltwater and return to the aquarium.
4. Repeat until flatworms are at a reasonable level. Adding multiple six line wrasses will be of some help in keeping red flatworms under control.

Be sure to dip corals in CoralRx before trading them with other hobbyists.

Introduction to Filamentous Hair Algae (Bryopsis):

Bryopsis is a nuisance alga that can overgrow corals and live rock. It is generally dark green and filamentous. It is an indicator of high levels of nitrates and phosphates. Often, the nitrates and phosphates are not detectable because they are being used by the Bryopsis.

Filamentous Hair Algae is not palatable to most reef herbivores, but some sea urchin and sea hares will eat these algae.

 

What Bryopsis looks like:

Bryopsis is a type of dark green alga. There are many types of Bryopsis, taking on many different forms.

For identification of your alga, reference a book such as Algae: A Problem Solver Guide by Julian Sprung.

Signs of infection:

Green stringy alga located on rocks and coral bases.

 

Life Cycle:

This alga can spread through asexual reproduction and sexual reproduction. Asexual reproduction is accomplished by fragmentation. This is one way it can spread fast and out of control in the aquarium.

Fragmentation happens by pulling the alga out of the aquarium. It is not recommended pulling alga off the rocks in the aquarium without a siphon to pull out little fragments.

 

Prevention:

These alga breakouts are caused by low magnesium, low alkalinity, low ph, high levels of dissolved organic compounds, high levels of nitrates or phosphates and/or temperature swings.

Monitoring these parameters is important in maintaining a healthy aquarium.

 

Treatment:

1. For isolated outbreaks, dip coral and/or rock(s) in CoralRx for 5 – 10 minutes.
2. After 5 – 10 minutes, remove the coral and discard the coral dip. Do not reuse coral dip as Coral Rx may have also removed parasites that have been known to release toxins.
3. Rinse coral and rock with clean saltwater and return to the aquarium.
4. Next, you must correct your water chemistry.
5. Repeat coral dip in 3 to 5 days and recheck your water chemistry daily.

For whole tank outbreaks, correct water chemistry, reduce photoperiod to 6 hours per day and clean skimmer on a daily basis. Cleaning a skimmer on a daily basis can improve skimming efficiency by up to 50%.